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When chef Bobby Benjamin was developing the concept for his new Nashville restaurant, Union Common, he had a very specific idea in mind. A dining expedition in Chicago had gotten him excited about the prospect of a social eatery with a menu revolving around shared plates. His partners in the project, however, were more interested in a classic steakhouse. The resulting compromise has turned out to be the best of both worlds.
What to Order: What to Order:
Shaved Kale, $9
Pecan Salad, $12
Nashville Hot Sweetbreads, $16
Seared Pork Belly, $12
Midtown Seafood Platter, $75
The Union Mac Burger, $16
24 oz. 45-day aged New York Strip, $65
Located at the meeting point of Broadway and Division in midtown, Union Common is set in wedge-shaped property, reminiscent of Manhattan's famed Flatiron Building. The entrance, at the point of the pie slice, brings diners to a long, sleek bar space decorated in dark hues and gold accents, setting off an Art Deco vibe. Inviting horseshoe-shaped booths run the length of the shotgun-style eating area, and leather seats accented in black and gold pay homage to neighboring Vanderbilt. At night, sitting in the dining room can feel like sitting on a train car as traffic streams by the tinted windows. A cool jazz soundtrack completes the mid-century ambianceand thanks to excellent acoustics, it fades into the background, allowing for intimate table conversation.
To start, a long list of small plates is arranged from light to heavier fare, with items ranging from a selection of international cheeses to roasted beets to fried cauliflower. Further down, dishes become more substantial, with offerings like roasted bone marrow, crispy duck, seared pork belly, and Nashville hot chicken sweetbreads. Those last two are particular standouts, thanks to thoughtful preparation by chef Benjamin and chef de cuisine Jason McCollum. Unlike so many other pork belly dishes, the Duroc version at Union Common benefits from a week of curing and pressing to solidify the unctuous streak of fat and develop deeper flavors. After a three-day braise, it's sliced thick and served over a cayenne-flavored carrot puree and pickled vegetables.
And those hot chicken sweetbreads are Benjamin's homage to Nashville's most famous dish. 'I knew I couldn't top the chicken at Prince's, Hattie B's, or Husk, so I took it in a different direction,” he shares.
He soaks the offal in hot sauce before seasoning and breading, then ages and dries them for a week to intensify the flavor. They arrive lightly fried and served over addictive buttermilk rolls with a side of housemade pickles. Order them with a sparkling wine from the restaurant's extensive menu of half bottles and by-the-glass options curated by beverage director Justin Moorethe combo results in an explosion of heat and bubbles.
Though it's part of the entrée section, we suggest sharing the chilled seafood platter before digging into dinner. Benjamin prefers cold-water oysters; a rotating selection from around the country is served with a whiskey mignonette and fresh horseradish made from three different forms of the spicy root. Or you could go for a pound of smoked mussels served with house hot sauce; the delicate hickory smoke is a nice contrast to the meaty bivalves. There's also a classic shrimp cocktail, jumbo lump crab, and lobster tailsor indulge in all three as part of the Midtown Platter or the truly imposing Nashville Tower. Although these pricey dishes might incite sticker shock, the quality of the ingredients and their sheer size make them worth the price.
Union Common also offers a selection of composed large plates like yellowfin tuna, pan-seared salmon, and the Union Mac Burger, a delightfully messy double-patty cheeseburger made from organic hormone-free beef. If the traditional steakhouse dinner is what you're after, order the 24-ounce USDA prime New York strip. At $65, it serves four with substantial portions. Their method is slightly untraditional, says Benjamin. The meat has been aged 45 days, meaning there's no need to rush it.
'If you're going to splurge on a steak dinner, we want to make sure that the cut has time to be properly seasoned and rested before we sear it, cook it in a 1,200-degree broiler, and then allow it to rest again to reabsorb the natural juices before slicing it,” he explains.
The massive steaks are portioned and served family-style. And a deft hand in the kitchen means they'll get it just the way you like it, from Pittsburgh rare to well done. (But please, don't impose overcooked steak on the rest of your table without their permission.)
1929 Broadway; 615-329-4565; unioncommon.com