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The first thing that hits you when you walk into the reincarnation of The Sutler is the smell: leather and bacon. The leather comes from a mosaic of colorful cowboy boots that act as a backdrop for the stage (where you'll find alt-country, blues, and Americana acts) while the essence of bacon emerges from the small open kitchen that runs along the left wall of the dining room. Here, chef Nick Seabergh and his brigade pump out a menu of Southern-inspired comfort food that perfectly complements the urban saloon ambiance.
What to Order: What to Order:
Potted Smoke, $8Bear Creek Brisket Horseshoe, $16Sunburst Farms Whole Rainbow Trout, $18Pit Smoked Loaded Mac, $9Veggies Raw, $8
Owners Austin Ray and Joe Parkes have done their best to re-create the vibe of the original honky-tonk, which opened in 1976. (They moved the space down a few doors from its original location.) A replica of the original wooden bar greets patrons just inside the front door, as does a compact list of cocktails and craft beers, with happy hour specials available from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. during the week.
Rather than obsessively listing every ingredient down to the brand of bitters or species of mint like some craft cocktail lounges insist on doing, Ray's menu simply lists the primary spirit and a description of what to expect from each libation. For example: The Field Party, says the menu, contains mezcal and 'starts the party with fresh squeezed watermelon sweetness.” We say, order it.
As for the food, Seabergh has apparently never met a pig he didn't likeor, more accurately, that he wasn't willing to utilize as a flavor ingredient in his decadent dishes. Under the 'Jars” section of the menu, look for the Potted Smoke, a spread made from smoked pork shoulder and brisket. The Horseshoe stacks are like a cross between Canadian poutine and a Kentucky Hot Brown; they come with a choice of smoked brisket, pork, or chicken served over Texas toast and are smothered in a rich cheddar ale gravy. The crispy French fries that accompany them have been fried three times in pork fat, making the whole dish an over-the-top indulgencewhich you can outdo by adding a fried egg on top. Other notable main plates include a Harris Ranch hanger steak seasoned with a Bongo Java coffee rub and a whole rainbow trout from Sunburst Farms served with black-eyed pea cowboy caviar. (Warning about that trout: The fish has eyes. But don't let that stop you from ordering this otherwise delightful dish.)
Down a set of stairs decorated with boot soles is The Cellar, an intimate speakeasy bar and lounge with red velvet wallpaper and vintage furniture. There's a cozier vibe here with a fireside table and crafty cocktails that were developed by noted Nashville mixologist/consultant Alan Kennedy. There are also plenty of beer and upscale bourbon choices. This Sutler is only just getting startedagainbut early returns indicate that Nashvillians are eager and ready to bring this beloved institution back to life.
2600 Franklin Pk., Ste. 109; 615-840-6124; thesutler.com