When it opened in 2011, The Catbird Seat was a game changer. Suddenly, Nashville had a national spotlight, and from there, the floodgates opened. Founding chefs
Josh Habiger and Erik Anderson impressed diners with their carefully constructed, multicourse feasts, all whipped up within a tiny kitchen surrounded by bar seats. And then, in 2014, the restaurant rewrote its own rules. Habiger and Anderson had moved on to new projects, opening the door to chef
Trevor Moran, who, after a lengthy wait for an international visa, arrived via Noma in Copenhagen. Almost immediately, Moran’s Ireland-by-way-of-Denmark cuisine had the food elite buzzing. Here he was, putting out dishes that incorporated Southern ingredients, recalled his Irish heritage, and looked like Noma masterpieces—all to harmonious effect: Think potato-broth tea infused with herbs; beef tartare served with hibiscus leaves, snail eggs—and no utensils (it works, we swear); and poached oysters with buckwheat hollandaise foam. There’s talk that Moran’s ever-changing menu might soon blow past the typical 11 or more courses, which would certainly raise eyebrows once again. For now, we say get yourself a seat—reservations still fill up fast, but if you’re flexible and check back often, cancellations can quickly work in your favor.
1711 Division St., 615-248-8458; thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com