With the increased interest in farm-to-table dining, it's only logical that wine drinkers have started to pay more attention to the farming practices of grape growers. Recently, buzzwords like organic and biodynamic began popping up on wine bottle labels and in storesand now they're being bandied about in restaurants, too.
The term 'organic” is regulated by the U.S. government and relates to the specific growing environment of grapes; it's used to label wines that have no added sulfites to help preserve the product. 'Biodynamic” is not as specifically defined but generally relates to farming without the use of chemical fertilizers or herbicides. Farmers often treat the entire ecosystem of their vineyards using complementary plants to help control insects and work with lunar cycles to plan planting and harvests. Taking it one step further is the concept of 'natural” wines, where no additional yeast is added to the crushed grapes to start fermentation; instead they depend on naturally occurring indigenous yeast strains to kick off the conversion of sugars into alcohol.
Mollie Ward, manager and wine director at Rolf and Daughters, is a fan of all three types of wines: organic, biodynamic, and natural.
'The majority of our list comes from winemakers who practice organic and biodynamic farming,” she says. 'We feature them [because] we think it's a smarter way to make wine, and we want to encourage people who are more responsible with their land.”
Plus, the flavor profiles presented by Rolf and Daughters chef Philip Krajeck happen to complement organic and biodynamic winesWard notes that you'll find very few sweet offerings on the menu. 'We use a lot of fermented and pickled ingredients, so we prefer to pair those dishes with wines that are not as rich as a bottle that is meant to be drunk alone without food,” she adds.
Nicolette Anctil, beverage director at The Catbird Seat, agrees with Ward when it comes to pairing natural wines with an eclectic menu.
'I think that biodynamic wines are much more expressive and personal,” she says. 'Natural wines still have some yeast in the bottle, so it shows how alive the wine is.”
Both Ward and Anctil often point diners to East Nashville's Woodland Wine Merchant when they're looking for options to bring home, and the store's owner, Will Motley, says he's seen an increase in interest in organic and biodynamic wines. 'I find that grapes grown in soil that is alive are much more expressive,” he says. 'It's not the easiest way to go, so these farmers and winemakers tend to be smaller and more hands-on.” Most of the producers that he features are from Italy, Spain and France, but Woodland Wine Merchant also represents a few domestic organic producers for customers who don't want to translate their wine labels. Drop by and ask any of the knowledgeable staff there for advice and try a new bottle of farm-to-glass wine soon.
top 4 recommendations:
From Will Motley of Woodland Wine Merchant; 1001 Woodland St., 615-228-3311; woodlandwinemerchant.com
Broc Cellars Central Coast Cabernet Franc (organic/biodynamic), $25
Winemaker Chris Brockway doesn't actually grow any grapes himself. Instead, he makes wine in a Berkeley, California, warehouse using only sustainably, organically, or biodynamically grown grapes sourced from the West Coast. This urban winery has released a delightful Cabernet Franc, a varietal that is usually found as a minor complementary grape in Bordeaux blends. Brockway allows it to take center stage to great effect.
Cooper Hill Pinot Noir (organic), $18
Finding a good bottle of pinot noir for less than $20 is already extremely rare. Add to that the fact that the grapes were grown organically, and this nicely balanced and structured wine is a real steal.
Domaine Mosse Moussamoussettes NV (biodynamic), $25
This Gamay-based wine from the Loire Valley is made via méthode ancestrale, meaning the wine is actually fermented in the bottle. The result is a lovely sparkling wine that still displays a bit of yeast sediment in the bottle. Don't let a little cloudiness turn you off of this unique find.
Marcel Lapierre Raisins Gaulois (organic), $30
Also a Gamay blend, this wine comes from the Beaujolais region of France. Lapierre returned the winery to the practices of his grandfather and has inspired a group of like-minded winemakers in the region to eschew pesticides and herbicides.