The sturdy, well-crafted wooden sign hung flush to the northwest corner of the new 12th & Paris building is branded with the words “Burger Up” and a crimson cow. It’s discrete enough that it would be easy for the thousands of cars traveling daily on 12th Avenue South to zip right by without even seeing it. Except for the sizable crowd that congregates day and night outside of this highly anticipated and much heralded culinary addition to 12South, as well as its commercial chums in the mixed-use 12th & Paris—beloved Mexican popsicle store Las Paletas and Greenlight Market & Deli.
Whether drivers brake out of curiosity or courtesy, the slowdown of busy north- and south-bound commuter traffic is just one of the gifts that proprietor Miranda Whitcomb Pontes and husband Michael Pontes have brought to 12South/Belmont with Burger Up.
The Pontes are no stranger to the neighborhood and vice-versa. Miranda Whitcomb opened coffee shop and café Frothy Monkey in July 2004. She announced her intention to use as many organic products in her salads, sandwiches, soups, baked goods and breakfast foods as possible, to offer tasty dishes for vegetarians and vegans, and gluten-free baked goods. It was a policy statement that had some grumbling about the resultant higher price point, but proved to be a great attraction to those who care about such things—mommies, creative types and locavores among them. The commitment to community-bred items is not exclusive to food: local artists, local causes (Thistle Farms) and local start-up businesses (Partners Tea Co.) are all spotlighted.
If the wait for a cup of coffee, farm egg omelet or Larry sandwich seems a bit long, the people-watching is fascinating. And if you’ve lived in Nashville longer than a few months, you’ll know someone there. If you live within walking distance, you’ll know at least half the people there, as well as everybody behind the counter and in the kitchen.
Frothy Monkey and Miranda Whitcomb slipped so seamlessly into the fabric of this neighborhood (full disclosure alert: my neighborhood) that it’s disconcerting to imagine it without her and her store. We admired the single mother as she worked tirelessly growing Frothy Monkey, and followed with great interest the romance between her and Michael Pontes. It’s a wonder Michael didn’t feel he had to ask us for approval before he proposed to Miranda; to our delight, wedding bells rang in the fall of 2008.
Their next step was to reproduce—not in human form, but by creating another casual, thoughtful, welcoming gathering place for the community.
The backside of Burger Up’s menu tells the tale of the restaurant, from the original idea of quality burgers discussed in a casual conversation one day with 12th & Paris developer (Nashville-based Core Development), to the signing of the lease in November 2008, to the oft-delayed and highly anticipated opening on May 1. Composed by Miranda, it’s a chatty letter to customers that illustrates the couple’s mission, a term highly preferable to a corporate “concept.”
She knew she wanted to source the best beef possible, preferably locally; serendipitously, it so happened that the naturalist teacher at her son’s school was Cynthia Lee, a daughter of Wallace Lee, owner of the Triple L Ranch in Williamson County. The Lee family, she avows, demonstrate not only humane treatment of their animals, but true love and respect for them.
She spent months seeding relationships with other farmers, and 10 Tennessee farms are represented on the Burger Up menu; lamb is from Niman Ranch, shrimp is from South Carolina and oysters from the North Atlantic for now (thanks, BP)....
All The Info:
Burger Up:
2905 12th Ave. S., 12th & Paris building
(615) 279-3767
burger-up.com
Best Dishes:
Seared Sea Scallops and Foie Gras, Tuna Tartar, Yazoo Pale Ale Poached Jumbo Prawns, Baby Spinach Salad, Woodstock Burger, Lamb Burger, Truffled Fries, Olive & Sinclair Dark Chocolate and Peanut Butter Brownie
The Bar:
Full selection of spirits; Yazoo Pale Ale, Amstel Light and Guinness on draft, more than a dozen in bottles including two non-alcoholic, one gluten-free and three high gravity; wines by the glass and bottle from a list culled from smaller wineries.
Noise Level:
Loud and lively
Price Range:
$4 for cups of truffled or sweet potato fries and fried Vidalia onion tower; $13 seared sea scallop and foie gras app; $9 for Triple L Classic burger, $11 for Woodstock, $13 for Lamb. All burgers served with fries.
Hours:
Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Parking:
On 12th Avenue and side streets
Reservations:
Parties of six or more by phone. Large parties of 20 and above with 24 hours notice.
Credit Cards:
AmEx, VISA and MasterCard