“A good bottle of wine,” says Kix Brooks meditatively, “is really about friendship, about sharing, spending time with people.” It’s no surprise, then, that that’s the atmosphere Arrington Vineyards (part-owned by Brooks) is trying to promote, and it seems to be working. The winery began as an idea shared between Brooks and business partners Fred Mindermann and Kip Summers. Brooks and Mindermann met at church, and began their planning in 2003. In 2005 they brought in former Beachhaven Winery chief winemaker Summers, and really got the juices flowing—in more than a metaphorical sense.
If you haven’t made the trip to the beautiful little winery, with its Rhineland-style A-frame chalet and tasting room set amid the rolling hills of Williamson County, it’s a joy to discover. Tennessee, like it or not, has a reputation for producing wines that are overly sweet and without nuance, a trend that’s become the major industry niche in Southern states, saving perhaps Virginia. (Here in Middle Tennessee we have a couple of exceptions in Beachhaven and Chateau Ross, as well, and there’s plenty of potential with the recently opened Amber Falls Winery in Hampshire, Tenn.) It’s somewhat surprising, given that before Prohibition, Tennessee had more viticulture than any other state in the union. Reclaiming the potential that’s here, Arrington Vineyards produces wines in a more California dry style. In fact, both the wines and the experience of visiting Arrington are closer to what you find in Napa or Sonoma valleys, though the burgeoning wine industry in the state will likely mean we see more of this in the future.
Sitting atop some 75 acres of absolutely glorious land with a micro-climate not unlike that of Tuscany (according to production manager Chase Vienneau), the vineyards are rich in potential. Currently about 16 acres are planted, with more vines to come. Growing wine grapes in Tennessee is complicated by late-spring frosts more than anything else, including deer munching on delicate leaves and vines, according to both Summers and Vienneau. The late, lengthy freeze in April of 2007, for instance—when temperatures dropped below freezing for days—set the vineyard back a bit. They’d hoped to be producing from their own harvests by now (it takes two to three years for a vine to really produce), but in the meantime, they’re making wine from grapes bought from other Tennessee growers, with smaller quantities coming from out of state. The grapes arrive in their original state, often still with stems attached, so the whole process from crushing to aging and blending happens there on the grounds. Currently, they’re growing an assortment of varietals: Syrah, Cabernet, Viognier, Traminette, Sangiovese and Chambourcin. Where other varietals are required, they will continue to follow the wine-growers’ tradition of buying from other wineries.
Marketing Manager Christel Foley says of the 12 types of wine they have for sale, two lead the pack in popularity: Red Fox Red, a medium-bodied, fruity-spicy blend of 50 percent Sangiovese with six other varietals; and Stag’s White, a versatile Gewurztraminer blend that pairs beautifully with summer meals. At a recent tasting, the group of semi-wine snobs—er, friends—I brought all favored the Cabernet, which was slightly lighter in body then a traditional Cab, and the Syrah, which is outstanding. Foley herself leans toward the Viognier, which is crisp, clean, and completely drinkable. Coming soon are a Chambourcin-based port (available in December) and a new reserve Cab, KB105.
That the blends are so popular isn’t surprising, says winemaker Summers, pointing out that in Europe, blends are the norm—almost every bottle has a little something blended in to add some depth. Here in the U.S., though, we’re bonded to our strict varietals. Whichever direction you choose, you’re bound to be pleased. You’re unlikely to find the other neighborhood winery faux pas here, either—all these wines are appropriately aged in steel or oak (depending on the varietal) right there on the property. Make sure you take the time to tour the facilities when you visit. Jenny Carpenter did a fantastic job of showing us around when we visited.
And in case you’re feeling nostalgic, there’s just a hint of the old-time Tennessee sweet wine to be found in the raspberry dessert wine. Sweet and slightly tart, it’s tailor-made to partner with chocolate. In fact, Franklin chocolatier Schokolad produces a luscious truffle with this wine as an ingredient.
According to Foley, the winery tries to make it to all the wine festivals they can, but they don’t provide private tastings. The people at Arrington would rather encourage would-be tasters to come out and have the full tasting experience with their great staff. On weekends the vineyard becomes a jazz-concert and picnic destination, as guests bring food, purchase a bottle or two, and relax while listening to live music on the hillside. After all, what better way to enjoy wine than to drink it on the very ground from which it grows?