The sun just barely brushed Dauphin Island, Ala. on an October Friday morning, when my friends Sarah, Dale and I, our significant others still asleep, practiced our pre-coffee yoga and looked out over the beach and the rough, gray waves rushing in, wind lightly brushing our faces. Dale, the big, scary Army guy, was just as taken by the beauty of the place as us girls. Dauphin Island lies just off Mobile, a city I hadn’t visited since I was eight. After less than a day I was stunned. Mobile’s rich in history, folklore, art and culture, and so full of interesting activities you can’t do it all in one visit. Besides staying on the island, before I leave, I’ll also stay in a luxury hotel in the city proper, the beautiful Battle House Hotel, circa 1852—and enjoy every minute of the visit.
Mobile possesses the Southern gentility you expect along the Gulf Coast, reminiscent of New Orleans, but less edgy. The burgeoning tourism industry owes its success to abundant amenities like the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail, with some of the finest courses in the U.S. There’s an abundance of seaside adventure to be had, from deep sea fishing to exploring the Estuarium at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, and plenty of gentler pursuits abound, too, including the annual Gulf Coast Antiques, Food and Wine Festival the first weekend in December. Stately homes and a historic downtown offer plenty of sightseeing opportunities, and a plethora of museums dedicated to everything from art to science to Mardi Gras provide tremendous family appeal. The spectacular Bellingrath Gardens remains a horticultural dream-tour for those with gardening inclinations.
If you drive, as we did, it’s just shy of eight hours from Nashville, but an easy trip straight down I-65. I think I drove my friends a little crazy wanting to stop at all the farm stands and orchard markets advertised at southern Alabama exits.
Spending a long weekend on Dauphin Island, we took excursions to the Estuarium for an up-close look at the sea life in the bayou and Gulf that surrounds Mobile. Historic Fort Gaines, built in 1861 but a major fortification dating back to the 18th century, provided another fascinating tour, and we were lucky enough to be there for a living history group’s reenactments. Then there was just the general pleasure of running or doing yoga near the water’s edge, watching the herons and pelicans, and taking in the ocean air—though it was October, the weather in the often-rainy season proved warm and beautiful.
While we did some cooking for ourselves, there was frequent shuttling in and out of the city for the outstanding food. Mobile makes for an exceptional culinary destination. OK, we had one unfortunate experience with a restaurant whose signs promised the worst service on Dauphin Island (and delivered), but overall, the gastronomic offerings were extraordinary.
A Spot of Tea in downtown Mobile proved the favorite breakfast spot, with luscious waffles and great omelettes. Already a popular breakfast and luncheon destination, Mobile’s legendary restaurateur John Weichman now takes over the restaurant after five with an exciting gourmet dinner menu. Housed on Dauphin Street, the century-old building, still graced with amazing period architectural features, also houses a new dance venue, Club Insanity, a hot new ultra-lounge and a jazz club. (If you haven’t guessed, there’s plenty of interesting night-life in town, too.)
When we shifted into town, the gorgeous Battle House Hotel put us within walking distance of a huge number of great restaurants, plus fine shopping, museums and the outstanding convention center. The Beaux Arts-style Battle House, with its stellar restaurants, lovely rooms and amazing Crystal Ballroom, is a must-choose site for destination weddings. However, if your taste is more modern, two blocks down Royal Street you’ll discover its very contemporary sister hotel, the Renaissance Riverview Plaza. This hotel is a perfect corporate retreat or business destination, and like the Battle House boasts a magnificent on-site restaurant, the Harbor Room (where I dined on fabu blackened grouper and chocolate souffle one night). Riverview Plaza’s remarkable collection of local contemporary art makes it worth the visit alone. A third Renaissance Hotel, The Grand Hotel Resort, Golf Club and Spa, is just outside town....
Where to Stay
RENAISSANCE BATTLE HOUSE HOTEL
26 North Royal St.
Mobile, Ala.
(251) 338-2000
www.rsabattlehouse.com
RENAISSANCE RIVERVIEW PLAZA
64 South Water St.
Mobile, Ala.
(251) 438-4000
www.riverviewmobile.com
THE GRAND HOTEL MARRIOT RESORT,
GOLF CLUB & SPA
1 Grand Blvd.
Point Clear, Ala.
(251) 928-9201
www.marriottgrand.com
HOLIDAY ISLE CONDOS
APC Real Estate, Inc.
Dauphin Island, Ala.
(866) 861-3311
www.acpinfo.com