“Welcome to the BVI,” boomed the smiling customs agent as I lugged my suitcases through the line for inspection. “I predict you’ll have a lovely trip,” he added. And was he ever right. My first visit to the British Virgin Islands (BVI) will definitely not be my last.
More than 60 picturesque islands make up the British Virgin Islands. I recently joined a small group of writers staying on Tortola and Virgin Gorda, but due to the close proximity of the entire area, we were able to spend time on, or at least see, many more of the islands, both large and small.
It was immediately apparent, as our affable driver, Keith, took us from the small airport in Tortola to the Sugar Mill Hotel on Little Apple Bay, that the BVI were totally different from many other Caribbean islands—no high-rise hotels, no casinos, no fast food chains. Heaven! Wild goats and roosters dart out of nowhere throughout the islands on the few roads that exist, the terrain is steep, lush and mountainous, the fragrant scents of orange blossoms are everywhere, the people are extremely friendly, the islands are peppered with funky beach bars and shops, and all of it is surrounded, of course, by utterly breathtaking views of the Caribbean—crystal clear, robin’s egg, turquoise, teal, azure, navy, or cobalt blue, depending on the depth and the motion of the sea.
Our driver was also able to act as tour guide, which gave us a chance to learn a great many things about the BVI: No property is taller than a palm tree, for instance, and the island of Tortola has only one red light. Its capital, Road Town, is home to this light, and its residents are trying to put a stop to government plans to add a second light.
When we arrived at Apple Bay and the Sugar Mill Hotel, the vacation was officially underway. Perched on the side of a steep mountain, Sugar Mill Hotel and its lush, tropical gardens sit amid the ruins of a 17th century sugar plantation. The boutique property is small but has a variety of accommodations to meet most guests’ needs. I loved the open stall shower, the round salt-water pool, and the on-site upscale-casual restaurant.
Sunrise comes early here during the mid-summer, so as roosters trumpeted the arrival of a new day, I prepared for a full schedule touring the island of Jost Van Dyke. Just a short boat taxi-ride away, this island has a lost-in-time feel—it’s home to only 150 permanent residents, and didn’t get electricity until about 20 years ago. If you love undeveloped beaches, laid-back lodgings, shack beach bars, simple island fare and friendly, down-to-earth locals, then you’ll feel like you’re in heaven here. For bars, I recommend Foxy’s, the Soggy Dollar Bar (known for their “Painkiller” drinks), Ivan’s Stress Free Bar, and One Love Bar, whose owner, Seddy Callwood, performed some remarkable magic tricks for a large group that just happened to show up at the
right time.
But the best part of Jost Van Dyke is the beach at White Bay. The waters here are amazingly calm and the most perfect turquoise color I saw during my visit. It was tough pulling myself away from the beach, but I wanted to take part in an ATV tour of the island, so I threw on a helmet and headed off on what was a series of incredibly steep dirt roads that offered stunning views of the scenic bay and the Caribbean just beyond.
Returning to the Sugar Mill Hotel, we freshened up and went to my favorite of the more upscale dining establishments, 15 Abbott Lane. Its Moroccan-style tented outdoor patio area features a lovely fountain and bar area, while inside, diners can enjoy their meals in a former (and quite spacious) private residence. Cocktails at 15 Abbot Lane were followed by a gourmet dinner in town at The Dove. Large or small groups are graciously accommodated at this charming venue.
After saying goodbye to the delightful staff at Sugar Mill, we were taken to a catamaran operated by Sunsail Charters for an expedition that included stops to Norman Island and the Caves, one of the BVI’s major snorkeling destinations. The excursion offered some incredible sightseeing opportunities. Lunch was served on Peter Island at the Deadman’s Bay Beach Restaurant, the home of a truly beautiful beach and its namesake upscale resort. During my day on the water, it became obvious why the BVI is called the Sailing Capital of the World—most islands are reached by line-of-sight navigation, so beginners feel very comfortable in these calm and easy-to-navigate waters.
Later in the day we arrived at Virgin Gorda and the ultra-exclusive Biras Creek Resort, which is only accessible by water or helicopter. A brief tour of the property by the knowledgeable and friendly staff highlighted the resort’s perfect location amid the Caribbean Sea, North Sound, and Atlantic Ocean. The eco-friendly Biras Creek is recognized as one of the top luxury destinations in the world and has garnered rave reviews from a number of highly respected publications. Situated on 140 acres, it’s very private and only has 31 luxury suites, all outfitted with outdoor shower rooms, sitting rooms, and all of the expected upscale amenities. The Premier Suite also features a private plunge pool and is dramatically situated on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.
Guests enjoy the use of bicycles which serve as the primary form of transportation to access the snow-white beach. Activities like kayaking, windsurfing, sailing, snorkeling, scuba lessons, tennis, guided hikes (keep an eye out for the very large, but tame, iguanas that are permanent residents), picnic lunches and much more add to the fun. Virtually any activity, including spa treatments at the newly refurbished spa, can be arranged by the flawless staff.
Dinner on our third night at the BVI found us at The Rock Cafe. Dining al fresco in a tropical setting is always a treat, and this restaurant didn’t fail to deliver. Fresh seafood, an island favorite called a roti (kind of like an enchilada), and the usual array of tropical and exotic cocktails were delivered by the friendly staff. Billed as the only piano bar on Virgin Gorda, the place was packing in a lively, fun-loving crowd as we headed back to Biras Creek.
One of the most memorable moments on the trip came on the last day. A water taxi took us to a ground taxi which transported our group to the magical, must-see Baths. The Baths are located on Virgin Gorda and were created by enormous granite boulders stacked and strewn across white, ultra-soft sandy beaches forming caverns and grottos filled with shallow, crystal-clear pools of water. And just outside the waterways that make up the Baths is some of the best snorkeling in the area—technicolor fish swim all around as you gaze underwater in awe.
For our last meal, we were treated to an on-site dinner at the Biras Creek private dining room. Each exquisite course was paired with wines from the resort’s impressive wine cellar. Quite a few celebrities have booked the private room for special occasions or just to ensure privacy. A larger, open-air dining room is located nearby, and both are situated on one of the highest points in the area and offer spectacular views of the three surrounding bodies of water. Every meal I had here was a culinary treat, incredibly fresh and beautifully executed, and all meals are included in the resort’s rates. The attention to detail is evident—they’ve certainly succeeded in their goal of creating the perfect unfussy getaway for guests who want to take a break from their stressful lifestyles. A few days at Biras Creek can go a long way toward putting your life back into perspective. Stellar views, hiking, carefree biking through lush wild vegetation, plush accommodations, superb dining ... I could get used to a place like this.
Heading back to Nashville, I tried to figure out how quickly I could manage to return to the British Virgin Islands. If you’re looking for a place that’s more rustic than fancy, more natural than man-made, more laid-back than action-packed—a place, in other words, that’s beautiful, soothing and mellow—then make the BVI your next island getaway.
For More information about the British Virgin Islands, contact the BVI Tourist Board Tortola at (284) 494-3134, or BVI Tourist Board Virgin Gorda at (284) 495-5181.
Where to stay
The Sugar Mill Hotel
Tortola, British Virgin Islands
1-800-462-8834
www.sugarmillhotel.com
Biras Creek Resort
Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands
(877) 883-0756
www.biras.com
Rates for both of these properties vary greatly depending on the season. Wedding packages are available.